Dhaulagiri Expedition (8167m/26,795ft)

Dhaulagiri Expedition is the foreboding peak climbing in Nepal. The first successful summit was not until 1960. Dhaulagiri's sheer size is unparalleled to any other peak. It rises over 7000m over the Kali Gandaki Valley and is 30km long, which by any standard is an impressive statistic. The majority of ascents to date makes via the first ascent route known as the "Normal Route" on the mountain. There have also been other ascents that have to create from almost every direction.

The massif Dhaulagiri has 5 ridges and 2 faces in South and Western aspects. Each rise 4000m from their respected base camps. Dhaulagiri has 5 summit peaks: Dhaulagiri I is (8167m/26,795ft) Dhaulagiri II (7751m/25,430ft) Dhaulagiri III (7715m/25,311ft) Dhaulagiri IV (7661m/25,135ft) Dhaulagiri V (7618m/24,992ft) Surrounding the massive 8000m peak is: Churen Himal Main (7371m/24,183ft) Gurja Himal (6342m/20,807ft) Putha Hiunchuli (7246m/23,772ft) Junction Peak (4235m/13,894ft).

Satori Adventures and Expedition operate the summit Dhaulagiri expedition in the spring and autumn seasons with full board and Dhaulagiri base camp logistic services. We offer services to groups or single participants. Satori Adventures always provides safe and secure mountaineering in a trusting and friendly environment. We provide professional, supportive, and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the advanced base camp of Dhaulagiri through Darbang by bus, a trek through Dharapani, Muri, Bagar, Italy base camp, Japanese camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp. Satori Adventures provides a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics, airfare, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC, we organize logistics to provide all required accommodation and food. During the base camp and climbing period in the base camp, our chefs and kitchen assistants will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and make sure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients in the base camp, both with full board or base-camp services. We also offer a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities, and tent accommodation for our staff in the base camp.

Dhaulagiri typically climbs from the Northeast Ridge route. Typically four camps will be set up above base camp. The advanced base camp (5300m) are Camp I(5900m), Camp II(6400m), Camp III(7200m), and Camp IV(7500m).

Dhaulagiri Northeast Ridge:
Dhaulagiri Advanced Base Camp (4748m/15,577ft):
Satori Adventures always operates the Dhaulagiri expedition in both the autumn and spring seasons. We usually run the trip from the usual route "Northeast Ridge), but we will run the Dhaulagiri journey from the Southeast, Southwest, and the Northwest. Groups requesting these options need to be a minimum of 5-6 people in a team.

The approach starts south of Dhaulagiri, trekking through the Majhangdi Khola, the gorge between the Dhaulagiri I & II around the mountain's North Face. Base camp usually set up across from the Eiger, a steep rock tower that separates the North face from the Northeast spur. The Eiger is notorious for producing avalanches. The first part of the climb consists of a long trek up the icefall that starts at the Eiger's foot and goes up towards the saddle between Dhaulagiri and Tukche-Ri. From there, the climbers venture on to the actual Northeast ridge for the first time.

Satori Adventure's advanced base camp will set up for almost one month period. On an 8000m, expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally, base camp becomes a home away from home on any long expedition. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points of different groups and with a strategic viewing position of the Dhaulagiri massif. Satori provides a personal tent that becomes your private retreat, a dining tent, a common area, a shower tent, and a toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp, it will already be fully established, with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. There will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpas. Before your climbing period, you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This Nepalese tradition is not to miss; it represents a safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.

Dhaulagiri Camp I (5450m/21,000ft) 4-5hrs:
Once you have reviewed the basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I(5450m/21,000ft). In this section of the climb, you will encounter mixed terrain. The first section of the ridge is known as Jacobs Ladder and is a moderately technical limestone and snow climb. Nowadays, the top of the ladder forms camp II location, but the 1960 expedition had set up an intermediate camp near the top of the icefall. Before the glacier section, you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs, and a moraine. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about two hours and requires fixing rope for almost 200m at a slope of 35-40º.

Dhaulagiri Camp II (6400m/20,997ft) 2½-3hrs:
The climbing from camp I to camp II is the intermediate section of the route and ascends ice and few mixed climbing sections. Comparing with other centers, the distance between base I and camp II is safer and more comfortable. Here you will encounter the heart of the ice and snow. The first section is just slogging over snow for about two hours, and then you meet several steep areas of blue ice at 35-40º slope and extends for50-60 meters, these sections do not require a ladder. For most people, this is the crux of the route. Camp II lies above the snowy terrace.

Dhaulagiri Camp III (7400m/24,278ft)4-5hrs:
Camp II to camp III is the long-distance of 1000m/3,281ft. Between camp II and camp III, 100% route need to be fixed the like by Sherpa climbing guide. This section for most climbers feels more comfortable and safe because of most of the routing fix. This section is not to take lightly, the climbing is on sustained slopes, and there is exposure to cold and wind. However, there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section in autumn, making it feel hot. You have to climb about 4 hours along blue ice and snow on a 35-45º slope in this climbing section. This section is a little dangerous in the spring season because the snow slope covers a layer of ice, making the section avalanche prone. That is why Satori Adventures advises our clients to climb in the autumn season rather than spring.

Dhaulagiri Summit (8,167m/26,795ft) 16-17 hrs:
Summit day is the primary goal of the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid between 11:00-01:00 is. If all goes well, they reach the summit between 7:00-10:00 am. Below the prominent peak is a false summit. The central panel arrives via an exposed ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to Camp III from the point and another 3 hours to get to camp II for an overnight stay. The route requires 400m of fixed rope above center III below the serac, another 400m of fixed rope above the serac and below the false summit, another 100m. So we require almost 900m of rope above camp three to summit on a 35-50º slope. Most of the sections are blue ice and snow. The climbing is not technical in the lower divisions; as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls, the route becomes increasingly tricky. The climb passes through the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the actual meeting for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Satori Adventures Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail, and make every effort to help the group reach the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world.